(Aside: when in the 1990s Huy first saw the historic town of Hoi An -- a 16-17th century trading center south of DaNang, discovered and eventually protected by a Polish archeologist-- he said he was deeply moved by the rich multi-cultural history in its architecture, layout and generations of families. Something has been lost as it has catered more and more to tourists, even though protected as a national heritage site.). But back to this farming community.
We entered by way of a day care center, tucked under a leafy canopy and full of 3-4 year olds who came out giggling and waving, then lined up and sang Frere Jacques in Vietnamese. (The legacy of French colonialism is still apparent everywhere.) Beyond the shady cluster of small buildings lay the fields, a tidy mosaic of long narrow bands of herbs--basil, mint, lemon grass I presume or perhaps shallots, and a staple called morning glory-- with modest but well-tended homes around the perimeter. Groves of cumquats with small green fruits and the occasional white flower punctuated an otherwise flat palette.
In the middle of the gardens stood this family grave (the red raised casket-shaped structure) -- not unusual. We saw many graves amid the rice paddies outside HaNoi, placed by fortune tellers who advise families exactly where and in what alignment will be the most auspicious location for these ancestral graves.
Spread out on the poured concrete patio in front of this home was rice drying in the sun.
Huy is showing us the cumquats (above) and the morning glory (below) which is a staple in Vietnamese salads and stir fries.
Outside the perimeter of housing, water. I wondered if the land in the middle had been built up for housing and agriculture by dredging out these rice paddies somewhat, or whether the river just splits around slightly higher elevation. Probably a difference of less than a foot, but there are larger berms of soil built up between the wet areas and the homes. Of course, the ubiquitous water buffalo was not far away.
