Country in transition

Viet Nam is a country in transition.  That was one of the first things Huy said to us.  I'm keeping my ear out for ways this is evident. Yesterday (was that Wednesday?) he spoke of the enormous growth in population: 90 million now, up from 40 million in 1975.  So an incredibly young population...more than half born since reunification. (Official policy is now to limit families to two children .)  Retirement is mandatory for men at age 60, for women at 50, so there will be jobs for the youth.

While  a communist country politically, Viet Nam appears to be adopting capitalism economically. (What Huy might call the "vietnamization" of communism...more on vietnamization from Marianne.). There is no private ownership of the land; that belongs to the state.  But what you build on it, how you use the land is up to you.  You are taxed depending on the land use.  If you sell your house, you have two contracts: one to sell the building, another to transfer use of the land.  The state continues to control oil production and export, but other things like electricity are in private hands now.  The resort in Da Nang where we just arrived was allegedly (rumor has it, again according to Huy) financed by the communist party 15 years ago, when getting a permit for such a venture would have been very difficult.  The government provides health care for children up to age six, then the parents must provide it.

The original constitution proposed three parties to make up a democratic coalition as conceived by Ho Chi Minh, but the communists rewrote this constitution and eliminated the two other parties.  But of the 600 members of congress, just 20% are communist.  So today,while there are 2.5 million members of the communist party (a practical consideration for getting a job), Huy says there are very few communists!

It amazes me just how rapidly things are changing in Viet Nam.

Embroidered Images

As we traveled by bus to Halong Bay two days ago, we took a rest stop at a government-sponsored shop selling many kinds of crafts: lacquerware, paintings, sculpture, clothing and other fabrics. One room was a workshop for embroidery, with men and women working busily over their frames.

I particularly loved the images capturing the rice harvesting we had just seen in real life. I bought some  (beware: Christmas spoiler!)... Here they are. Aren't they neat?

Traffic in Hanoi

Traffic in Hanoi is, well, quite something. The majority of people move around on motorbikes; whole families ride on the same bike; vendors transport their goods... It is said that in the city of Hanoi with a population of 6 million people there are 3 million motorbikes. While Hanoi pedestrians cross streets with aplomb, visitors like us are a study in courage as we cross. Take a look at the video clip below, filmed yesterday morning at an intersection in the Old Market section of the city.

Oh my goodness! 

One Hundred Ways to Lose Your Passport

From Marianne:

On the bus to the Hanoi Airport, Huy asked, "Does everyone have his passport? Can you touch it?"

Then he told us the following story.

"For a while I thought I would write a book about '100 Ways to Lose Your Passport.' But then one day, on a boat trip in HaLong Bay, something happened that made me change my mind about writing that book.

"A tour member, who was a very careful man, went for a swim. He had put his passport and his airline ticket in his pocket enclosed in a plastic bag. When he finished his swim, he realized what he had done. His passport and ticket were drenched.

Thinking of how he could dry them out, he went back into the kitchen on the boat, put both items into the microwave and turned on the microwave. Both items immediately burned up."

Huy then said that for three minutes he (Huy) was unable to say a word. The ticket was able to be replaced. The passport replacement took three days.

After telling us this story, Huy then asked us to take out our passports so he could collect them.

In Hanoi's Old Quarter

From Marianne:

As we were on the bus driving to Hanoi's Old Quarter for a walk-through, led by Huy, he prepared us by telling us to think of the Old Quarter as a huge supermarket. "It is open-air style supermarket, where all the competitors are in shops nearby, on the same street.

 "Ladies carrying baskets on a bamboo yoke are like a walking fresh market. You might think that they are just wandering around on the streets. Actually they are walking a regular routine. The shopkeepers may not be able to leave their shops to get lunch or fresh groceries. Not a problem. The bamboo yoke lady will come by bringing bananas or prepared lunches and the like."

Huy explained that he has developed life-time relationships with shopkeepers whose personalities he likes. They have known him since he was a small boy.

As the bus pulled over to let us step out, Huy explained that there would be "a lot of sticky rice." He also said thaat there would be times when we would not be able to walk on the sidewalk. We would need to walk in the street. "Go single file on the road. For those of you who are wearing shorts, watch out for the motorcycle exhaust pipes. If one touches your bare leg, you will receive a hot burn."`

Stories Huy Told Us

From Marianne:

On our bus rides to and from our daily visits, Huy uses the time to tell us about the day, about history or culture details, and, from time to time, stories from his personal life.

This day it was the latter.

We were leaving Hanoi to be on travel throughout the rest of the country. So Huy had had a meeting with his family. Here's the vignette according to Huy:

I met with mychildren to instruct them on their responsibilities while I am away for the next 11 days. My 10-year-old daughter knows what she needs to do. I asked my 4-year-old son what he should do while I'm away. "Can you think of what you should do while I'm away?"

Son: "Yes. I should not ask for any new toys."

Huy: "Very good. That's right. Now, can you think of something else you should do?

Son: "No."

Huy: "What about brushing your teeth every day? Can you do that?"

Son: "Yes."

Huy: "Can you think of something else?"

Son: "No."

Huy: Can you help your mother and your grandmother when they ask you to help?"

Son: "Yes."

Huy: "Very good. So now you know what you can do while I am away."

Son: "Yes.    (after a pause) but I think I can only do the first thing."